Like a waterfall in slow motion, Part One
3 years ago
Pictures and commentary on what remains of historic Route 66
I stopped for dinner at Rod’s Steak House. Rod’s is where I went with the family back in 1975 or so. I only recently learned that this is where my Dad always stopped on his way across country. Back in 1975, when we were driving through Williams, we had dinner there. The thing that stuck in my mind was that Dad always teased us (or, maybe just me…) about Rod’s. I have a vague memory of this night. What I remember most, is that someone (probably me) spilled a drink, or threw up or something. Anyway, the dinner was ruined, and from then on, Rod’s Steak House was synonymous with kids ruining dinner-out. Remind me not to make fun of my kids for the dumb stuff they do and spoil their childhood memories.
I stopped in Gallup and took some pictures of the Hotel El Rancho. Again, here’s one that must have a million photos floating around the Internet. What I’d like to see is a complete catalog of every building still standing along all alignments of Route 66. There are a few motels here, like the Blue Spruce Lodge that have historic signs, and no doubt have interesting histories. I’m not sure I’ve ever been to Gallup before, and I didn’t know what I’d find.
I knew I had to stop in Glenrio to take more pictures of abandoned buildings. There’s a ‘no services’ exit for Glenrio, and the signs for Route 66 (and back to the 40) are still there. It seems that there’s only one residence in Glenrio. In addition to a ‘sort-of-late-model’ ford subcompact in the driveway, there’s a beat up old jeep out in the weeds by the road. Here’s a town famous among travelers of Route 66 for the First/Last Motel in Texas and it’s sign that reads First or Last depending on which direction you’re traveling.

I’d seen a picture of the closed and possibly abandoned West Winds Motel. Since the picture was interesting, with an old truck sitting in the weeds out front, I pulled off the 40 for a quick look. The town of Erick itself is a lot more picturesque than I’d imagined. Signs alert the traveler to the Roger Miller museum, and provide directions there. If I’d known then that the museum celebrated the birthplace of the dude who wrote the classic “King of the Road”, I’d have stopped there. I have to admit that by this time I’m still in a kind of funky fog about the trip, and my plans.
The first thing I notice as I cruise down the road in Erick, is an old truck on the corner lot. To the right, past the truck is a yard full of cool old stuff. There’s a yellow plane and other artfully arranged junk in the yard of a house.
There’s another museum here. Although this one might even be better, I’m too antsy to risk it. This turns out to be a decision that I regret. I did buy a book at the museum, though: “Route 66” by Tim Steil. I plan to use this guidebook along the way to help me find interesting spots. At this point, I’m still not that interested in a fully guided tour, but it seems that there’s a lot I could miss if I don’t know what to look for. Still, I have no good idea of what I’m doing. If I keep on at this rate, I suspect I’ll make it back to LA in a couple of days, but what’s the purpose? What’s the goal? Do I really just want to drive down the highway and stop at a cheap hotel each night without much of a plan?
The Museum and Tour